International Tripmeter Range - Trouble-Shooting

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Electrical Interference – Please read this first

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Electrical Interference (EMI) coming from your car can affect your Brantz equipment in a variety of ways and although we are constantly updating our products to guard against this, some interference is too strong to guard against in the equipment itself and must be suppressed within your vehicle.

Symptoms such as;

• number randomly changing (mismatching displays)

• numbers jumping about or increasing inaccurately

• displays zeroing themselves (particularly the intermediate display)

• self-stepping when the engine is running but not moving

• freezing of the entire unit

are all typical of EMI (Electrical Magnetic Interference) most likely coming from your electronic ignition.

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You will need to fit suppression to remove the EMI that is attacking your Brantz Tripmeter. If you have copper cored plug leads fitted you need to start with these and fit suppressed leads (Like the Magnacor E/Sport 7 or 8mm). 

Interference is particularly common when homemade HT spark-plug leads have been used, but can come from damaged alternators or fuel pumps/horn/wipers etc.

Generally we would advise investigating most likely sources of interference such as:

• Plug Leads (we would always advise suppressed plug leads other than on magneto driven cars*)

• The Generator (Alternator/Dynamo/Magneto)

• The Coil

• Fuel Pump

• Windscreen Wiper Motor

Suppressors for each of these items are readily available.

*We recommend having Suppressed Plug Leads fitted only during Events and returning to your usual leads for standard use

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Test for Interference:

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If interference is present it is always too powerful to defend against and should be fixed at source by suppressors or new silicon leads etc.

1. Take a portable radio, select the AM band (important) and tune in to a quiet spot between stations.

2. Turn up the volume and start the vehicle.

3. Listen for loud clicks. That's interference!!

4. Compare the vehicle with a normal road car as a guide to what is acceptable. Try other vehicle accessories to locate intermittent sources of trouble. You are also welcome to send your unit in for a upgrade to the newest specification which may help; however it is best to resolve the problem within the car.

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Tripmeter Check

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First Perform a Sensor Check - See Above

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If the sensor check does not work you can check the tripmeter itself by the following test, which must be carried out strictly in the order described:

1. Switch off the meter.

2. Disconnect ALL three wires of the Grey Cable from the Sensor: Brown, Blue and Green/Yellow

3. Select calibration 009 on the tripmeter.

4. Switch on the tripmeter.

5. Press all the zeroing buttons.

6. Repeatedly make contact between the above Blue and Green wires of the Grey Cable.

7. The tripmeter should increment.

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If the tripmeter increments in this test but not during the sensor check it suggests that the sensor is faulty/has been damaged.

If the tripmeter does not increment during this test it suggests there is a problem with the tripmeter itself and it should be returned to Brantz for a Service.

 

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Calibration Self-Test

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• If you are having trouble calibrating your unit and you have checked the Sensor and the Tripmeter independently – there is an additional self-test that can be performed to check that the calibration switches are functioning correctly.

  • International 2S Pro (BR7): With the Tripmeter turned OFF – Hold the 'Speed/Ave Speed/Start Average' toggle switch over to the right and simultaneously turn the meter ON.

  • International 2 & 3 Pro (BR6 & BR8): With the Tripmeter turned OFF – Hold down ‘Zero Total’ and the Remote Reset Button and simultaneously turn the meter ON.

  • This puts the Meter in Test Mode

  •  The Speed Display (or Total Display for BR6) will reflect the calibration figures.

  • The Intermediate display will show the firmware version.

  • Rotate the 3 push-wheel switches and check the figures alter accordingly

  • The meter will stay in test mode until it is turned OFF and ON again.

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International - Frequently Asked Questions

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• There is no power when I switch the ON/OFF switch to ON:

  • Disconnect the Black Power cable of the tripmeter and connect it directly to a spare 12v battery out of the vehicle – NOTE: A battery charger is not a suitable power source as the current is not smoothed

  • Connect up the Brown Core (+12V) and the Yellow/Green Core (-12v) – if a blue core is present it is NOT Used.

  • Check that none of the cables or wire cores have been cut or are frayed.

  • Triple check your connections – Poorly fitted customer crimped connections make up the majority of faults here.

  • If the meter still does not light up it is advisable to send the unit back to Brantz for a Service/Repair.

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• When I switch the tripmeter ON only some of the display lights up:

  • It is likely your tripmeter is damaged inside and needs to be returned to Brantz for a Service/Repair

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• The Tripmeter readings randomly zero, jump about or mismatch between the Total and Intermediate:

  • This is most likely Electrical Interference – See Electrical Interference information above.

  • Ensure:

    • You have the unit connected directly to the battery terminals not the chassis, ignition or ignition fed cigarette lighter.

    • You have checked for Interference from HT Leads / Pumps / Horn / Wipers / Dynamo / Alternator

    • You have tested the Tripmeter away from the vehicle on a separate battery (i.e. on a work bench) - this is a good indicator as to whether the vehicle is interfering with the electronics of the unit.

 

• The Tripmeter readings increment on their own with no vehicle movement:

  • This is most likely Electrical Interference – See Electrical Interference information above.

  • Ensure:

    • You have the unit connected directly to the battery terminals not the chassis, ignition or ignition fed cigarette lighter.

    • You have checked for Interference from HT Leads / Pumps / Horn / Wipers / Dynamo / Alternator

    • You have tested the Tripmeter away from the vehicle on a separate battery (i.e. on a work bench) - this is a good indicator as to whether the vehicle is interfering with the electronics of the unit.

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• The Tripmeter randomly stops collecting pulses:

  • Test the Sensor – See Sensor Check above.

  • Test the Tripmeter – See Tripmeter Check above

  • CHECK your connections

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• The Tripmeter randomly loses power:

  • CHECK ALL your connections.

  • Check all the wires to ensure good connections and that there are no cut into or frayed cable or wire cores.

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• My Tripmeter and my Wheel Sensor work OK independently, but do not work when on the vehicle:

  • Check the sensor is close enough to the bolt heads to pick them up.

  • Check your tripmeter is newer than 2005 or it may need to be returned to Brantz for an Upgrade.

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• My Tripmeter and my sensor work OK independently, but do not work when on the vehicle:

  • CHECK ALL your connections and everything is wired correctly.

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• My Tripmeter is counting backwards, is my sensor fitted the wrong way round?

  • The Brantz mechanical sensors work either way round so it is more likely that the Count + / Count – toggle switch has been moved into the ‘count down’ position.

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• The Average Speed display on my 2S Pro is jumping about all over the place:

  • In the early models the average speed jumped about randomly to signify it had not been initialised – flick the average speed toggle switch to the right, once, to initialise the beginning of the average speed calculation.

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• The Top Display is counting much faster than the Bottom display:

  • Ensure the stepper knob is in the fully clicked off position.

  • Check for Interference – See Electrical Interference information above.

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• How do I do minor adjustments in calibration:

  • If the distance reading is too HIGH - INCREASE the calibration figures by one or two

  • If the distance reading is too LOW - DECREASE the calibration figures by one or two

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• I get a different figure each time I try and calibrate on a measured distance?

  • This is most likely Electrical Interference – See Electrical Interference information above.

  • Or if you have a Wheel Sensor fitted – ensure the sensor is picking up every stud on rotation and not just occasionally.